Quiet Winter Farm
Handy Hints For Pet People:
Ants in the dog food bowl: Place the bowl of food
in a low pie pan filled with water.
Chewing Inhibitor: Rub clove oil on the wood
Chewing Inhibitor: Spray the wood with
antiperspirant spray or if you have white woodwork
or furniture that is being chewed, you can just smear
the stick kind on as it is usually white. It will
pucker their tongues!
Digging Holes in the Yard: Sprinkle cayenne pepper
into the holes....no more digging....stings their toes.
Homemade Dog Treats From Leftovers: Cut up
leftover pork chops, steak, or even chicken into
small cubes. Microwave until dry and rather hard.
Dogs love these treats and they don't mess up your
pockets. They can be frozen and used later too.
House Training Aide: Attach a bell on a string to the
door you want your puppy to go out to potty. Make
sure the bell is low enough that the puppy can reach
it. Every time you take the dog out to potty, shake the
bell. After a while your pup will ring the bell
himself to let you know he needs to go outside to
potty. I learned this from one of our first dogs. We
had one of those chain locks down near the bottom of
the door and each time we opened the door it would
rattle. The dog started going to the door and rattling
the chain when she wanted to go outside to potty.
Pet Urine on Carpet
First, blot up what you can with paper towels. Mix
one teaspoon mild dish-washing detergent in one cup
warm water, dip a clean towel in the liquid and,
working from outside in, dab at stain. Do not
overwet. Rinse with fresh water and blot dry. Next,
add one-third cup white vinegar with two-thirds cup
water and dab on stain. Rinse with water; blot until
dry. Once area is totally dry (after at least 24 hours),
sprinkle entire carpet with baking soda or rug
deodorizer. Vacuum after a few hours.
Pet Urine & Sour Spilled Milk Odors:
Neutralize urine and sour spilled milk odors from
rugs, mattresses and mattress covers by dampening
the spot and sprinkling 20 Mule Team® Borax
over it. Rub the 20 Mule Team® Borax into the
areas and let dry. Brush or vacuum to remove the dry
Borax.
Urine stain remover solution: Here are the
ingredients to make a urine stain remover solution; 1
16 oz. bottle of Hydrogen Peroxide, 1 Tbsp. of
Baking Soda, 1 Teas. of liquid dish detergent
(regular or antibacterial). Mix all ingredients into a
plastic or glass bowl (do not use metal). Stir with a
plastic spoon (not metal!) until completely
dissolved. Place in a plastic squirt bottle. Test the
solution on a small, hidden part of your rug, carpet
or furniture. Completely saturate the urine stain and
allow the solution to soak in. Do not blot. Do not
scrub. Do not walk on the spot. Allow to air dry.
Once dry, vacuum up any residue left by the baking
soda.
Fly Repellent:
2 cups vinegar
1 cup Avon Skin So Soft
1 cup water
1 Tbs Eucalyptus Oil
1 Tbs Citronella Oil
Put in spray bottle and spray dog's coat as needed.
Keep out of eyes. A good product for the sensitive
areas of the face and head is Farnam Roll-On Fly
Repellent.
Also: putting apple cider vinegar in the dog's water
will help repel flies.
Toys: A long tube sock knotted a couple of times
works just as well as the expensive stuffed toys or
rope chews.
Ants in the dog food bowl: Place the bowl of food
in a low pie pan filled with water.
Chewing Inhibitor: Rub clove oil on the wood
Chewing Inhibitor: Spray the wood with
antiperspirant spray or if you have white woodwork
or furniture that is being chewed, you can just smear
the stick kind on as it is usually white. It will
pucker their tongues!
Digging Holes in the Yard: Sprinkle cayenne pepper
into the holes....no more digging....stings their toes.
Homemade Dog Treats From Leftovers: Cut up
leftover pork chops, steak, or even chicken into
small cubes. Microwave until dry and rather hard.
Dogs love these treats and they don't mess up your
pockets. They can be frozen and used later too.
House Training Aide: Attach a bell on a string to the
door you want your puppy to go out to potty. Make
sure the bell is low enough that the puppy can reach
it. Every time you take the dog out to potty, shake the
bell. After a while your pup will ring the bell
himself to let you know he needs to go outside to
potty. I learned this from one of our first dogs. We
had one of those chain locks down near the bottom of
the door and each time we opened the door it would
rattle. The dog started going to the door and rattling
the chain when she wanted to go outside to potty.
Pet Urine on Carpet
First, blot up what you can with paper towels. Mix
one teaspoon mild dish-washing detergent in one cup
warm water, dip a clean towel in the liquid and,
working from outside in, dab at stain. Do not
overwet. Rinse with fresh water and blot dry. Next,
add one-third cup white vinegar with two-thirds cup
water and dab on stain. Rinse with water; blot until
dry. Once area is totally dry (after at least 24 hours),
sprinkle entire carpet with baking soda or rug
deodorizer. Vacuum after a few hours.
Pet Urine & Sour Spilled Milk Odors:
Neutralize urine and sour spilled milk odors from
rugs, mattresses and mattress covers by dampening
the spot and sprinkling 20 Mule Team® Borax
over it. Rub the 20 Mule Team® Borax into the
areas and let dry. Brush or vacuum to remove the dry
Borax.
Urine stain remover solution: Here are the
ingredients to make a urine stain remover solution; 1
16 oz. bottle of Hydrogen Peroxide, 1 Tbsp. of
Baking Soda, 1 Teas. of liquid dish detergent
(regular or antibacterial). Mix all ingredients into a
plastic or glass bowl (do not use metal). Stir with a
plastic spoon (not metal!) until completely
dissolved. Place in a plastic squirt bottle. Test the
solution on a small, hidden part of your rug, carpet
or furniture. Completely saturate the urine stain and
allow the solution to soak in. Do not blot. Do not
scrub. Do not walk on the spot. Allow to air dry.
Once dry, vacuum up any residue left by the baking
soda.
Fly Repellent:
2 cups vinegar
1 cup Avon Skin So Soft
1 cup water
1 Tbs Eucalyptus Oil
1 Tbs Citronella Oil
Put in spray bottle and spray dog's coat as needed.
Keep out of eyes. A good product for the sensitive
areas of the face and head is Farnam Roll-On Fly
Repellent.
Also: putting apple cider vinegar in the dog's water
will help repel flies.
Toys: A long tube sock knotted a couple of times
works just as well as the expensive stuffed toys or
rope chews.
Housebreaking and Crate Training Your Dog
The keys to housebreaking are:
A. Confinement from the wrong places to go to the
bathroom.
B. Constant or regular access to the right place to go
to the bathroom.
Confinement
Confinement means that until your puppy or dog is
housebroken, she is never allowed to walk around
freely.
Every minute of every hour of every day...unless you
are sitting with the puppy, playing with her, walking
her, teaching her something, etc...she must be confined.
Because if she is loose and you take your eyes off her,
she can go to the bathroom on your floor or carpet in
an instant, and the bad habit is begun. (If or should I
say, "When" an accident occurs, be sure that you clean
up using an enzyme cleaner that will remove the odor.
Dogs will return to that same spot if you don't get rid
of the odor. Don't clean it with any type of ammonia
cleaner because they smell much like the urine and
don't use anything acidic. I would suggest that you get
a big box of 20 Mule Team Borax for this purpose.
It's inexpensive and works well.
Confinement means a dog pen or dog crate, or gated in
a small room, always in the middle of family life.
Going to the bathroom outdoors:
1. Establish a regular routine for meals and pick up
the bowl after each meal. Pick up water bowls about
3 hours before your regular bedtime. Of course, don't
do any intensive play during this time that would make
the puppy overly thirsty.
2. Establish a regular in and out daytime schedule.
Take the pup out about every two hours plus
whenever she wakes from a nap, after she eats (small
pups will usually poop within 5 or 10 minutes after
eating...like clockwork), or when she suddenly walks
in small quick circles or starts sniffing the floor. Do
not let the pup roam your house. Only have her out of
her crate/gated area if you are playing with her. One
option would be to attach her leash to your belt loop
and let her follow you around so you can keep a close
eye on her if you don't have time to do a lot of regular
play. They love to be near you..
At night......you can roughly figure that a pup can go
30 minutes to one hour for every week of age so you'll
probably be safe with getting up only once during the
night if your pup is very young and soon you can drop
that time from your schedule too. Don't forget to limit
the water intake before bedtime which helps greatly.
3. Choose a bathroom spot in your yard. Sounds
yucky, but if you can get some of their urine on a small
towel and drop the towel in that area, they seem to get
the idea. You can get enough urine by wiping them
right after they've tinkled and then you can put the
small cloth in a zip lock bag. Take the pup directly to
that spot (drop the tinkle cloth) on a leash. This
works without the cloth too. Stand still. You can let
her circle you, but don't move from your spot. Don't
speak to her except to say, "Hurry Up" or "Go Potty".
If she gets bored and sits down, take a few steps to get
her moving and then stand still again. If she really
doesn't need to go, bring her back inside. Put her in
her crate and close the door. After a couple of
minutes take her back outside. She will learn that she
must go to the bathroom when you take her out to the
bathroom spot. A well trained dog will give you a
token drop to show you that she doesn't need to go.
4.) When she does go on command, praise her and
you could even give her a treat. After she does her
potty business, and only then, do you romp and play
with her awhile.
The keys to housebreaking are:
A. Confinement from the wrong places to go to the
bathroom.
B. Constant or regular access to the right place to go
to the bathroom.
Confinement
Confinement means that until your puppy or dog is
housebroken, she is never allowed to walk around
freely.
Every minute of every hour of every day...unless you
are sitting with the puppy, playing with her, walking
her, teaching her something, etc...she must be confined.
Because if she is loose and you take your eyes off her,
she can go to the bathroom on your floor or carpet in
an instant, and the bad habit is begun. (If or should I
say, "When" an accident occurs, be sure that you clean
up using an enzyme cleaner that will remove the odor.
Dogs will return to that same spot if you don't get rid
of the odor. Don't clean it with any type of ammonia
cleaner because they smell much like the urine and
don't use anything acidic. I would suggest that you get
a big box of 20 Mule Team Borax for this purpose.
It's inexpensive and works well.
Confinement means a dog pen or dog crate, or gated in
a small room, always in the middle of family life.
Going to the bathroom outdoors:
1. Establish a regular routine for meals and pick up
the bowl after each meal. Pick up water bowls about
3 hours before your regular bedtime. Of course, don't
do any intensive play during this time that would make
the puppy overly thirsty.
2. Establish a regular in and out daytime schedule.
Take the pup out about every two hours plus
whenever she wakes from a nap, after she eats (small
pups will usually poop within 5 or 10 minutes after
eating...like clockwork), or when she suddenly walks
in small quick circles or starts sniffing the floor. Do
not let the pup roam your house. Only have her out of
her crate/gated area if you are playing with her. One
option would be to attach her leash to your belt loop
and let her follow you around so you can keep a close
eye on her if you don't have time to do a lot of regular
play. They love to be near you..
At night......you can roughly figure that a pup can go
30 minutes to one hour for every week of age so you'll
probably be safe with getting up only once during the
night if your pup is very young and soon you can drop
that time from your schedule too. Don't forget to limit
the water intake before bedtime which helps greatly.
3. Choose a bathroom spot in your yard. Sounds
yucky, but if you can get some of their urine on a small
towel and drop the towel in that area, they seem to get
the idea. You can get enough urine by wiping them
right after they've tinkled and then you can put the
small cloth in a zip lock bag. Take the pup directly to
that spot (drop the tinkle cloth) on a leash. This
works without the cloth too. Stand still. You can let
her circle you, but don't move from your spot. Don't
speak to her except to say, "Hurry Up" or "Go Potty".
If she gets bored and sits down, take a few steps to get
her moving and then stand still again. If she really
doesn't need to go, bring her back inside. Put her in
her crate and close the door. After a couple of
minutes take her back outside. She will learn that she
must go to the bathroom when you take her out to the
bathroom spot. A well trained dog will give you a
token drop to show you that she doesn't need to go.
4.) When she does go on command, praise her and
you could even give her a treat. After she does her
potty business, and only then, do you romp and play
with her awhile.
Horse Terminology
Event Prospect = Big Fast Horse
Dressage Prospect = Big Slow Horse
Hack Prospect = Pretty Color
Sporting Prospect = Short Fast Horse
Camp Prospect = Fast Horse which can turn
Endurance Prospect = Fast Horse which will turn sometimes
Flashy = White Socks
Attractive = Bay
15.2hh = 14.3hhh
16.2hh = 15.3hh
To Loving Home = Only Expensive
To Show Home.. Very Expensive
Needs Experienced Rider = Potentially Lethal
Elegant = Thin
In Good Condition = Foundered
Free Moving = Bolts
Quiet = Lame in Both Front Legs
Dead Quiet = Lame in All Four Legs
Good in Traffic (Bombproof) = Lame all Round, Deaf and Blind
Loves Children = Kicks and Bites
Pony Type = Small and Hairy
Arab Type = Looks startled
TB Type = Looks Terrified
Quarter Horse Type = Fat
Warmblood Type = Big and Hairy
Draught Type = Big and Exceedingly Hairy
Easy to Catch = Very Old
Must Sell = Wife has left home and taking kids
All Offers Considered = I am in Traction for 6 months
Reluctant = Sale Comes with Title Deeds to Brooklyn Bridge
Event Prospect = Big Fast Horse
Dressage Prospect = Big Slow Horse
Hack Prospect = Pretty Color
Sporting Prospect = Short Fast Horse
Camp Prospect = Fast Horse which can turn
Endurance Prospect = Fast Horse which will turn sometimes
Flashy = White Socks
Attractive = Bay
15.2hh = 14.3hhh
16.2hh = 15.3hh
To Loving Home = Only Expensive
To Show Home.. Very Expensive
Needs Experienced Rider = Potentially Lethal
Elegant = Thin
In Good Condition = Foundered
Free Moving = Bolts
Quiet = Lame in Both Front Legs
Dead Quiet = Lame in All Four Legs
Good in Traffic (Bombproof) = Lame all Round, Deaf and Blind
Loves Children = Kicks and Bites
Pony Type = Small and Hairy
Arab Type = Looks startled
TB Type = Looks Terrified
Quarter Horse Type = Fat
Warmblood Type = Big and Hairy
Draught Type = Big and Exceedingly Hairy
Easy to Catch = Very Old
Must Sell = Wife has left home and taking kids
All Offers Considered = I am in Traction for 6 months
Reluctant = Sale Comes with Title Deeds to Brooklyn Bridge
 | |  | |  | |  | |  | |  | |  | |  | |  |
| Quiet Winter Farm |
I want a puppy, but I work Full time... What do I do about housebreaking? Housebreaking
101"continued ---- Full time workers take note;
If you work Full time Housebreaking your new puppy can be made much easier if you have
the right tools- items. Two must have items are a crate and an exercise pen. These 2 items
work wonders when training a puppy between the ages of 8 weeks and 16 weeks. An
exercise pen is a folding pen with no bottom They are available in different heights and
connect very simply with brass hooks. If you place the pup's crate inside the exercise pen
with the crate door open it will reinforce the pups' instinct to keep his/her sleeping area
clean. Place some cedar shavings on the floor around the crate and inside the exercise pen
area and the puppy will come out of the crate to eliminate. This teaches the pup that the
crate is a haven a safe place, that allows them the freedom to leave the crate to go potty
when you are not around to take your puppy outside or during the night. This method
described above works well between the ages of 8 and 16 weeks when a puppy is not
mature enough to be able to wait to eliminate. If you lock a puppy of this age in his/her crate
for the night you most likely will have a very unpleasant surprise in the morning because the
puppy cannot wait to eliminate and if locked in a crate they will not be able to get away from
what they have done and you'll have a major mess. Incorporate this method along with
bringing the pup out to eliminate several times a day to a designated area using praise,
praise praise when your puppy does their business outside.
Using the exercise pen past the age of 16 weeks is also helpful in keeping a not quite 100%
housebroken puppy out of trouble.
It is a wonderful place to be able to place the pup when you go to work or you are not home
and it allows the pup some freedom to move about. Keeping a puppy who's insides are not
mature locked in a crate while you work all day is just down right mean! . An exercise pen
makes a much better situation for the puppy regardless of size. Think of a word or a phrase
when you take your pup outside to eliminate and always use this same phrase so your pup
will learn what it means when you bring him/her out to this area. If you have an adult dog
that is housebroken then it is much easier because the pup will want to follow the older dog
providing hes a kind and is a calm assertive leader
It is up to you to keep a strict schedule for your puppy if you want to have success in
housebreaking. The puppy wants to please you and it is your responsibility to make the
puppy a dog you can live with for many years. Repetition and praise, praise praise... is the
key to housebreaking.
There are many excellent training books for housebreaking and obedience and there is no
excuse for being lazy.
101"continued ---- Full time workers take note;
If you work Full time Housebreaking your new puppy can be made much easier if you have
the right tools- items. Two must have items are a crate and an exercise pen. These 2 items
work wonders when training a puppy between the ages of 8 weeks and 16 weeks. An
exercise pen is a folding pen with no bottom They are available in different heights and
connect very simply with brass hooks. If you place the pup's crate inside the exercise pen
with the crate door open it will reinforce the pups' instinct to keep his/her sleeping area
clean. Place some cedar shavings on the floor around the crate and inside the exercise pen
area and the puppy will come out of the crate to eliminate. This teaches the pup that the
crate is a haven a safe place, that allows them the freedom to leave the crate to go potty
when you are not around to take your puppy outside or during the night. This method
described above works well between the ages of 8 and 16 weeks when a puppy is not
mature enough to be able to wait to eliminate. If you lock a puppy of this age in his/her crate
for the night you most likely will have a very unpleasant surprise in the morning because the
puppy cannot wait to eliminate and if locked in a crate they will not be able to get away from
what they have done and you'll have a major mess. Incorporate this method along with
bringing the pup out to eliminate several times a day to a designated area using praise,
praise praise when your puppy does their business outside.
Using the exercise pen past the age of 16 weeks is also helpful in keeping a not quite 100%
housebroken puppy out of trouble.
It is a wonderful place to be able to place the pup when you go to work or you are not home
and it allows the pup some freedom to move about. Keeping a puppy who's insides are not
mature locked in a crate while you work all day is just down right mean! . An exercise pen
makes a much better situation for the puppy regardless of size. Think of a word or a phrase
when you take your pup outside to eliminate and always use this same phrase so your pup
will learn what it means when you bring him/her out to this area. If you have an adult dog
that is housebroken then it is much easier because the pup will want to follow the older dog
providing hes a kind and is a calm assertive leader
It is up to you to keep a strict schedule for your puppy if you want to have success in
housebreaking. The puppy wants to please you and it is your responsibility to make the
puppy a dog you can live with for many years. Repetition and praise, praise praise... is the
key to housebreaking.
There are many excellent training books for housebreaking and obedience and there is no
excuse for being lazy.
I want a puppy, but I work full time......
RATING YOUR DOG FOOD
Start with a grade of 100:
1) For every listing of "by-product" , subtract 10 points
2) For every non-specific animal source ("meat" or "poultry", meat,
meal or fat) reference, subtract 10 points
3) If the food contains BHA, BHT, or ethoxyquin, subtract 10 points
4) For every grain "mill run" or non-specific grain source, subtract
5 points
5) If the same grain ingredient is used 2 or more times in the first
five ingredients (i.e. "ground brown rice", "brewer's rice", "rice
flour" are all the same grain), subtract 5 points
6) If the protein sources are not meat meal and there are less than 2
meats in the top 3 ingredients, subtract 3 points
7) If it contains any artificial colorants, subtract 3 points
8 ) If it contains ground corn or whole grain corn, subtract 3 points
9) I f corn is listed in the top 5 ingredients, subtract 2 more points
10) If the food contains any animal fat other than fish oil, subtract
2 points
11) If lamb is the only animal protein source (unless your dog is
allergic to other protein sources), subtract 2 points
12) If it contains soy or soybeans, subtract 2 points
13) If it contains wheat (unless you know that your dog isn't
allergic to wheat), subtract 2 points
14) If it contains beef (unless you know that your dog isn't allergic
to beef), subtract 1 point
15) If it contains salt, subtract 1 point
Extra Credit:
1) If any of the meat sources are organic, add 5 points
2) If the food is endorsed by any major breed group or nutritionist,
add 5 points
3) If the food is baked not extruded, add 5 points
4) If the food contains probiotics, add 3 points
5) If the food contains fruit, add 3 points
6) If the food contains vegetables (NOT corn or other grains), add 3
points
7) If the animal sources are hormone-free and antibiotic-free, add 2
points
8 ) If the food contains barley, add 2 points
9) If the food contains flax seed oil (not just the seeds), add 2
points
10) If the food contains oats or oatmeal, add 1 point
11) If the food contains sunflower oil, add 1 point
12) For every different specific animal protein source (other than
the first one; count "chicken" and "chicken meal" as only one protein
source, but "chicken" and "" as 2 different sources), add 1 point
13) If it contains glucosamine and chondroitin, add 1 point
14) If the vegetables have been tested for pesticides and are
pesticide-free, add 1 point
A = 94-100
B= 86-93
C = 78-85
D= 70-77
F= 70 or lower
and FYDog
Food scores:
Alpo Prime Cuts / Score 81 C
Artemis Large/Medium Breed Puppy / Score 114 A+
Authority Harvest Baked / Score 116 A+
Authority Harvest Baked Less Active / Score 93 B
Beowulf Back to Basics / Score 101 A+
Bil-Jac Select / Score 68 F
Blackwood 3000 Lamb and Rice / Score 83 C
Blue Buffalo Chicken and Rice / Score 106 A+
Burns Chicken and Brown Rice / Score 107 A+
Canidae / Score 112 A+
Chicken Soup Senior / Score 115 A+
Diamond Maintenance / Score 64 F
Diamond Lamb Meal & Rice / Score 92 B
Diamond Large Breed 60+ Formula / Score 99 A
Diamond Performance / Score 85 C
Dick Van Patten's Natural Balance Ultra Premium / Score 122 A+
Dick Va n Patten's Natural Balance Venison and Brown Rice / Score 106
A+
Dick Van Patten's Duck and Potato / Score 106 A+
EaglePack Holistic / Score 102 A+
Eukanuba Adult / Score 81 C
Eukanuba Puppy / Score 79 C
Flint River Senior / Score 101 A+
Foundations / Score 106 A+
Hund-n-Flocken Adult Dog (lamb) by Solid Gold / Score 93 B
Iams Lamb Meal & Rice Formula Premium / Score 73 D
Innova Dog / Score 114 A+
Innova Evo / Score 114 A+
Innova Large Breed Puppy / Score 122 A+
Kirkland Signature Chicken, Rice, and Vegetables / Score 110 A+
Member's Mark Chicken and Rice / Score 84 C
Merrick Wilderness Blend / Score 127 A+
Nature's Recipe / Score 100 A
Nature's Recipe Healthy Skin Venison and Rice / Score 116 A+
Nature's Variety Raw Instinct / Score 122 A+
Nutra Nuggets Super Premium Lamb Meal and Rice / Score 81 C
Nutrience Junior Medium Breed Pupp y / Score 101 A+
Nutrisource Lamb and Rice / Score 87 B
Nutro Max Adult / Score 93 B
Nutro Natural Choice Lamb and Rice / Score 98 A
Nutro Natural Choice Large Breed Puppy / Score 87 B
Nutro Natural Choice Puppy Wheat Free / Score 86 B
Nutro Natural Choice Senior / Score 95 A
Nutro Ultra Adult / Score 104 A+
Pet Gold Adult with Lamb & Rice / Score 23 F
Premium Edge Chicken, Rice and Vegetables Adult Dry / Score 109 A+
Pro Nature Puppy / Score 80 C
Pro Plan Sensitive Stomach / Score 94 A
Purina Ben ful / Score 17 F
Purina Dog / Score 62 F
Purina Come-n-Get It / Score 16 F
Purina One Large Breed Puppy / Score 62 F
Royal Canin Boxer / Score 103 A+
Royal Canin Bulldog / Score 100 A+
Royal Canin Natural Blend Adult / Score 106 A+
Science Diet Advanced Protein Senior 7+ / Score 63 F
Science Diet for Large Breed Puppies / Score 69 F
Sensible Choice Chicken and Rice / Score 97 A
Solid Gold / Score 99 A
Summit / Score 99 A
Timberwolf Or ganics Wild & Natural Dry / Score 120 A+
Wellness Super5 Mix Chicken / Score 110 A+
Wolfking Adult Dog (bison) by Solid Gold / Score 97 A
:
Start with a grade of 100:
1) For every listing of "by-product" , subtract 10 points
2) For every non-specific animal source ("meat" or "poultry", meat,
meal or fat) reference, subtract 10 points
3) If the food contains BHA, BHT, or ethoxyquin, subtract 10 points
4) For every grain "mill run" or non-specific grain source, subtract
5 points
5) If the same grain ingredient is used 2 or more times in the first
five ingredients (i.e. "ground brown rice", "brewer's rice", "rice
flour" are all the same grain), subtract 5 points
6) If the protein sources are not meat meal and there are less than 2
meats in the top 3 ingredients, subtract 3 points
7) If it contains any artificial colorants, subtract 3 points
8 ) If it contains ground corn or whole grain corn, subtract 3 points
9) I f corn is listed in the top 5 ingredients, subtract 2 more points
10) If the food contains any animal fat other than fish oil, subtract
2 points
11) If lamb is the only animal protein source (unless your dog is
allergic to other protein sources), subtract 2 points
12) If it contains soy or soybeans, subtract 2 points
13) If it contains wheat (unless you know that your dog isn't
allergic to wheat), subtract 2 points
14) If it contains beef (unless you know that your dog isn't allergic
to beef), subtract 1 point
15) If it contains salt, subtract 1 point
Extra Credit:
1) If any of the meat sources are organic, add 5 points
2) If the food is endorsed by any major breed group or nutritionist,
add 5 points
3) If the food is baked not extruded, add 5 points
4) If the food contains probiotics, add 3 points
5) If the food contains fruit, add 3 points
6) If the food contains vegetables (NOT corn or other grains), add 3
points
7) If the animal sources are hormone-free and antibiotic-free, add 2
points
8 ) If the food contains barley, add 2 points
9) If the food contains flax seed oil (not just the seeds), add 2
points
10) If the food contains oats or oatmeal, add 1 point
11) If the food contains sunflower oil, add 1 point
12) For every different specific animal protein source (other than
the first one; count "chicken" and "chicken meal" as only one protein
source, but "chicken" and "" as 2 different sources), add 1 point
13) If it contains glucosamine and chondroitin, add 1 point
14) If the vegetables have been tested for pesticides and are
pesticide-free, add 1 point
A = 94-100
B= 86-93
C = 78-85
D= 70-77
F= 70 or lower
and FYDog
Food scores:
Alpo Prime Cuts / Score 81 C
Artemis Large/Medium Breed Puppy / Score 114 A+
Authority Harvest Baked / Score 116 A+
Authority Harvest Baked Less Active / Score 93 B
Beowulf Back to Basics / Score 101 A+
Bil-Jac Select / Score 68 F
Blackwood 3000 Lamb and Rice / Score 83 C
Blue Buffalo Chicken and Rice / Score 106 A+
Burns Chicken and Brown Rice / Score 107 A+
Canidae / Score 112 A+
Chicken Soup Senior / Score 115 A+
Diamond Maintenance / Score 64 F
Diamond Lamb Meal & Rice / Score 92 B
Diamond Large Breed 60+ Formula / Score 99 A
Diamond Performance / Score 85 C
Dick Van Patten's Natural Balance Ultra Premium / Score 122 A+
Dick Va n Patten's Natural Balance Venison and Brown Rice / Score 106
A+
Dick Van Patten's Duck and Potato / Score 106 A+
EaglePack Holistic / Score 102 A+
Eukanuba Adult / Score 81 C
Eukanuba Puppy / Score 79 C
Flint River Senior / Score 101 A+
Foundations / Score 106 A+
Hund-n-Flocken Adult Dog (lamb) by Solid Gold / Score 93 B
Iams Lamb Meal & Rice Formula Premium / Score 73 D
Innova Dog / Score 114 A+
Innova Evo / Score 114 A+
Innova Large Breed Puppy / Score 122 A+
Kirkland Signature Chicken, Rice, and Vegetables / Score 110 A+
Member's Mark Chicken and Rice / Score 84 C
Merrick Wilderness Blend / Score 127 A+
Nature's Recipe / Score 100 A
Nature's Recipe Healthy Skin Venison and Rice / Score 116 A+
Nature's Variety Raw Instinct / Score 122 A+
Nutra Nuggets Super Premium Lamb Meal and Rice / Score 81 C
Nutrience Junior Medium Breed Pupp y / Score 101 A+
Nutrisource Lamb and Rice / Score 87 B
Nutro Max Adult / Score 93 B
Nutro Natural Choice Lamb and Rice / Score 98 A
Nutro Natural Choice Large Breed Puppy / Score 87 B
Nutro Natural Choice Puppy Wheat Free / Score 86 B
Nutro Natural Choice Senior / Score 95 A
Nutro Ultra Adult / Score 104 A+
Pet Gold Adult with Lamb & Rice / Score 23 F
Premium Edge Chicken, Rice and Vegetables Adult Dry / Score 109 A+
Pro Nature Puppy / Score 80 C
Pro Plan Sensitive Stomach / Score 94 A
Purina Ben ful / Score 17 F
Purina Dog / Score 62 F
Purina Come-n-Get It / Score 16 F
Purina One Large Breed Puppy / Score 62 F
Royal Canin Boxer / Score 103 A+
Royal Canin Bulldog / Score 100 A+
Royal Canin Natural Blend Adult / Score 106 A+
Science Diet Advanced Protein Senior 7+ / Score 63 F
Science Diet for Large Breed Puppies / Score 69 F
Sensible Choice Chicken and Rice / Score 97 A
Solid Gold / Score 99 A
Summit / Score 99 A
Timberwolf Or ganics Wild & Natural Dry / Score 120 A+
Wellness Super5 Mix Chicken / Score 110 A+
Wolfking Adult Dog (bison) by Solid Gold / Score 97 A
:
Please scroll down the page to
also see Dog Food # 101-
also see Dog Food # 101-
'You don't need to defend a Lion. You just need to let him
out of his cage.' C.S. Lewis
out of his cage.' C.S. Lewis
For though I do not ask for aid,
we need it !
J. R. R. Tolkien, The
Fellowship of the Ring, spoken
by Boromir
British scholar & fantasy
novelist (1892 - 1973)
we need it !
J. R. R. Tolkien, The
Fellowship of the Ring, spoken
by Boromir
British scholar & fantasy
novelist (1892 - 1973)
0 to 8 Weeks
Neonatal, Transition, Awareness, and Canine Socialisation.
Puppy is with mother and littermates up to seven weeks . During this period,
your puppy learns about social interaction, play, and inhibiting aggression
from its mother and litter mates. Puppies must stay with their mother and
littermates through this critical period. As the puppies learn the most important
lesson in their lives, they learn to accept discipline. It is at this time that they
also learn not to toilet in the nest.
1 to 16 Weeks
Human Socialisation Period.
The best time to take a puppy home is 8 weeks then you have eight whole weeks to
work with the dog over this incredibly important period. The puppy now has the
brain waves of an adult dog, but his attention span is short. This period is when the
most rapid learning occurs. Learning at this age is permanent so this is a perfect
time to start training, but make it fun. This is also the time to introduce the puppy to
things that will play an important part in his life. Different people, places, animals, hoovers, washing machines
and unusual sounds, in a positive, non-threatening way.
8 to 10 / 12 Weeks
Fear Imprint
Period. Whilst
the Pup is going through human socialisation is will also go through an important
fear/hazard avoidance period. Avoid frightening the puppy during this period. Any
traumatic, frightening or painful experience will have a more lasting effect on the puppy
than if it occurred at any other time in its life. This is the period that if you do not
handle it correctly will give your dog a lasting fear of traffic and other frightening
noises. Never ever praise or sympathise with your pup when it is showing fear. This only
serves to confirm the fear.
13 to 16 Weeks
Seniority Classification Period.
Puppy starts to cut teeth and apron strings! Puppy begins testing its position in the
family unit. You must discourage all biting; the dog should have started to learn and
understand bite inhibition by this time! It is important that you are a strong and consistent
leader. The period between 0 and 16 weeks is the most important period in your dog’s life.
He will learn more during that short space of time than at any other time in his life. Other
windows of opportunity for learning will open during your dog’s life. However, what you
see at 16 weeks without extensive training and behavioural modification is about what you are
going to get as as an adult. Therefore, work hard on giving your pet the best start in life.
4 to 8 Months
Play Instinct Period. Flight Instinct Period.
Puppy may wander and ignore you. It is very important that you keep the puppy on a leash
at this time! The way that you handle your pup at this time determines if he will come to you
when called. At about 4-1/2 months, your puppy loses his milk teeth and gets his adult
teeth. That's when he begins serious chewing! A dog's teeth don't set in his jaw until
between 6 /10 months. During this time, the puppy has a physical need to exercise his
mouth by chewing. Training must continue through this period or all your good work may
revert back to stage one. Occasionally the puppy will start to urinate in the house again if
this happens, just go back to basic toilet training.
6 to 14 Months
Second Fear Imprint Period or Fear of New Situations Period.
Dog again shows fear of new situations and even familiar situations.
Dog may be reluctant to approach someone or something new. It is
important that you are patient and act very matter of fact in these
situations. Never force the dog to face the situation. DO NOT
pet the frightened puppy or talk in soothing tones. The puppy
will interpret such responses as praise for being frightened.
Training will help improve the dog's confidence. This fear
period is normally more marked in male dogs.
1 to 4 Years
Maturity
Period. You
may encounter some increased aggression and renewed testing for position
and authority however if you have spent lots of time with your dog and trained
consistently and regularly, then this should not present itself as a problem - in
fact you may hardly notice this change, it is just something to keep in mind.
Continue to train your dog during this period. It is possible that your dog may
have another fear period between 12 - 16 months of age.
Neonatal, Transition, Awareness, and Canine Socialisation.
Puppy is with mother and littermates up to seven weeks . During this period,
your puppy learns about social interaction, play, and inhibiting aggression
from its mother and litter mates. Puppies must stay with their mother and
littermates through this critical period. As the puppies learn the most important
lesson in their lives, they learn to accept discipline. It is at this time that they
also learn not to toilet in the nest.
1 to 16 Weeks
Human Socialisation Period.
The best time to take a puppy home is 8 weeks then you have eight whole weeks to
work with the dog over this incredibly important period. The puppy now has the
brain waves of an adult dog, but his attention span is short. This period is when the
most rapid learning occurs. Learning at this age is permanent so this is a perfect
time to start training, but make it fun. This is also the time to introduce the puppy to
things that will play an important part in his life. Different people, places, animals, hoovers, washing machines
and unusual sounds, in a positive, non-threatening way.
8 to 10 / 12 Weeks
Fear Imprint
Period. Whilst
the Pup is going through human socialisation is will also go through an important
fear/hazard avoidance period. Avoid frightening the puppy during this period. Any
traumatic, frightening or painful experience will have a more lasting effect on the puppy
than if it occurred at any other time in its life. This is the period that if you do not
handle it correctly will give your dog a lasting fear of traffic and other frightening
noises. Never ever praise or sympathise with your pup when it is showing fear. This only
serves to confirm the fear.
13 to 16 Weeks
Seniority Classification Period.
Puppy starts to cut teeth and apron strings! Puppy begins testing its position in the
family unit. You must discourage all biting; the dog should have started to learn and
understand bite inhibition by this time! It is important that you are a strong and consistent
leader. The period between 0 and 16 weeks is the most important period in your dog’s life.
He will learn more during that short space of time than at any other time in his life. Other
windows of opportunity for learning will open during your dog’s life. However, what you
see at 16 weeks without extensive training and behavioural modification is about what you are
going to get as as an adult. Therefore, work hard on giving your pet the best start in life.
4 to 8 Months
Play Instinct Period. Flight Instinct Period.
Puppy may wander and ignore you. It is very important that you keep the puppy on a leash
at this time! The way that you handle your pup at this time determines if he will come to you
when called. At about 4-1/2 months, your puppy loses his milk teeth and gets his adult
teeth. That's when he begins serious chewing! A dog's teeth don't set in his jaw until
between 6 /10 months. During this time, the puppy has a physical need to exercise his
mouth by chewing. Training must continue through this period or all your good work may
revert back to stage one. Occasionally the puppy will start to urinate in the house again if
this happens, just go back to basic toilet training.
6 to 14 Months
Second Fear Imprint Period or Fear of New Situations Period.
Dog again shows fear of new situations and even familiar situations.
Dog may be reluctant to approach someone or something new. It is
important that you are patient and act very matter of fact in these
situations. Never force the dog to face the situation. DO NOT
pet the frightened puppy or talk in soothing tones. The puppy
will interpret such responses as praise for being frightened.
Training will help improve the dog's confidence. This fear
period is normally more marked in male dogs.
1 to 4 Years
Maturity
Period. You
may encounter some increased aggression and renewed testing for position
and authority however if you have spent lots of time with your dog and trained
consistently and regularly, then this should not present itself as a problem - in
fact you may hardly notice this change, it is just something to keep in mind.
Continue to train your dog during this period. It is possible that your dog may
have another fear period between 12 - 16 months of age.
Neonatal, Transition, Awareness, and Canine Socialisation.
Still waters Lilly doing what she was
bred to do, Swim and Retrieve!
bred to do, Swim and Retrieve!
Poison Control
ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center
Hotline
As the premier animal poison control
center in North America, the APCC is
your best resource for any animal
poison-related emergency, 24 hours a
day, 365 days a year. If you think that
your pet may have ingested a
potentially poisonous substance, make
the call that can make all the difference:
(888) 426-4435. A $55 consultation
fee may be applied to your credit card.
DO NOT GIVE RAWHIDE TREATS TO
YOUR PUPPY! They are not healthy for
his/her digestive system, cannot be
digested and may contribute to TORSION,
a deadly condition in which the puppy's
stomach turns on itself. You can give your
puppy smoked pig ears, hoofs and marrow
bones as a chewy treat, your new puppy
will enjoy them a great deal.
PLAYING
Please provide plenty of chew toys, as
your new puppy will start teething soon (at
about 4 months) and having plenty of toys
in his roaming locations will help prevent
damage to your property. DO NOT USE
OLD SHOES AS CHEW TOYS! Your
puppy cannot tell the difference between
shoes he/she can and cannot chew.
TRAINING
German Shepherds love to have a job and
you should introduce your puppy to
training as soon as you bring him/her
home. Wether you go to formal training
classes or train them at home, the most
important thing is consistency from the
whole family. Your new puppy is very
smart and will learn to manipulate you if
you let them. Be consistent and patient in
establishing the "pack order" in your
family. Your new puppy needs to learn
that even the smallest human in your
family is "above" him. This will prevent
issues with future attempts at dominance
and aggression.
YOUR PUPPY! They are not healthy for
his/her digestive system, cannot be
digested and may contribute to TORSION,
a deadly condition in which the puppy's
stomach turns on itself. You can give your
puppy smoked pig ears, hoofs and marrow
bones as a chewy treat, your new puppy
will enjoy them a great deal.
PLAYING
Please provide plenty of chew toys, as
your new puppy will start teething soon (at
about 4 months) and having plenty of toys
in his roaming locations will help prevent
damage to your property. DO NOT USE
OLD SHOES AS CHEW TOYS! Your
puppy cannot tell the difference between
shoes he/she can and cannot chew.
TRAINING
German Shepherds love to have a job and
you should introduce your puppy to
training as soon as you bring him/her
home. Wether you go to formal training
classes or train them at home, the most
important thing is consistency from the
whole family. Your new puppy is very
smart and will learn to manipulate you if
you let them. Be consistent and patient in
establishing the "pack order" in your
family. Your new puppy needs to learn
that even the smallest human in your
family is "above" him. This will prevent
issues with future attempts at dominance
and aggression.
PUPPY ENVIRONMENTAL GUIDELINES
The environment plays a significant role in the development and well-being of your Quiet Winter pup. These
guidelines result from my 21 years of experience in raising Purebred Dogs.
Nutrition:
Feed only high quality food. Recommended foods are listed below. Certain commercially available, pre-mixed raw
diets are acceptable. A homemade raw diet, although currently fashionable, will negate your hip warranty. The proper
calcium/phosphorus ratio is critical to proper puppy orthopedic development. Quietwinter Farm cannot assume liability
for home-based nutrition.
Food must be fed in standardized measures. One cup = 8 oz, not whatever volume your extra-large coffee cup may
contain!
Restrict the amount of food to the daily portion recommended by the manufacturer—or (usually) less. Adjust food
volumes in ¼ cup increments. Sometimes pups need a little more--sometimes a little less—food. Body condition
should show a distinct “waist”. Two supplements are highly recommended: Grand Meadows Synergy (for joint
support) and ‘Nzymes Pro (for enhanced nutrient absorption). Both are available at www.kvvet.com (and other
internet providers).
Slow, steady growth over 2 years is the healthiest path for your pup. Bigger is not better.
At full maturity and in optimal condition, males will range from 75-80 pounds; females normally vary from 55-70
pounds. Over weight, or too sudden weight gain, is an enormous risk factor for orthopedic issues. A six month old
pup who weighs 70 pounds is a grave source for concern. QuietWinter Farm will carefully review veterinary records for
appropriate developmental weights when evaluating any Health warranty claim.
Regular kibble is the best “treat”. No Milk Bones! There are tiny, soft treats available. The smallest morsel possible
should be used to develop food drive.
Dogs need to chew. There are positives and negatives to most chew items. Ask your vet for advice.
Raw carrots, apples, tomatoes and many other veggies are great for the dogs. Do not be alarmed if they raid your
garden. Absolutely NO GRAPES, RAISINS, CHOCOLATE.
Exercise:
Growing bones are fragile. Growth plates do not fully close until close to one year of age. You must actively protect
your pup. Moderation in all exercise is best. Too little exercise and too much (and inappropriate exercise) can be
detrimental to your pup.
No jumping exercises until after 12 months.
No jumping in and out of automobiles.
No jumping down stairs
No excessive stairs
No controlled running until 12 months.
No free play with older, larger, physically mature dogs.
(Would you let a toddler play tackle football with a high school line-backer?)
No slippery surfaces.
Free walking/sprinting/cavorting on grass is ideal. Leash walks are fine—just no marathon miles at early ages.
Swimming is ideal for growing joints. Some dogs love the water, others are strictly land-lubbers.
Agility exercises where all four feet remain on the ground are fine. No hurdles, no tables, no dog walks until after 12
months.
Housing:
Crate training is highly recommended.
Kuranda dog beds are highly recommended. As advertised, these are virtually indestructible (and all parts are
replaceable!)
Non-slip surfaces are critical. A dog slip-sliding on polished tile is an orthopedic problem waiting to happen.
Toys:
No tennis balls of any kind. The fabric erodes tooth enamel and they are easily destroyed (and eaten) resulting in
intestinal obstruction.
Current Recommended Foods:
1) Verus - Holistic dog Food 2) Merricks Dog Food 3) California Naturals Dog Food 4) Dick Van Patten
Dog Foods Are Very good
The environment plays a significant role in the development and well-being of your Quiet Winter pup. These
guidelines result from my 21 years of experience in raising Purebred Dogs.
Nutrition:
Feed only high quality food. Recommended foods are listed below. Certain commercially available, pre-mixed raw
diets are acceptable. A homemade raw diet, although currently fashionable, will negate your hip warranty. The proper
calcium/phosphorus ratio is critical to proper puppy orthopedic development. Quietwinter Farm cannot assume liability
for home-based nutrition.
Food must be fed in standardized measures. One cup = 8 oz, not whatever volume your extra-large coffee cup may
contain!
Restrict the amount of food to the daily portion recommended by the manufacturer—or (usually) less. Adjust food
volumes in ¼ cup increments. Sometimes pups need a little more--sometimes a little less—food. Body condition
should show a distinct “waist”. Two supplements are highly recommended: Grand Meadows Synergy (for joint
support) and ‘Nzymes Pro (for enhanced nutrient absorption). Both are available at www.kvvet.com (and other
internet providers).
Slow, steady growth over 2 years is the healthiest path for your pup. Bigger is not better.
At full maturity and in optimal condition, males will range from 75-80 pounds; females normally vary from 55-70
pounds. Over weight, or too sudden weight gain, is an enormous risk factor for orthopedic issues. A six month old
pup who weighs 70 pounds is a grave source for concern. QuietWinter Farm will carefully review veterinary records for
appropriate developmental weights when evaluating any Health warranty claim.
Regular kibble is the best “treat”. No Milk Bones! There are tiny, soft treats available. The smallest morsel possible
should be used to develop food drive.
Dogs need to chew. There are positives and negatives to most chew items. Ask your vet for advice.
Raw carrots, apples, tomatoes and many other veggies are great for the dogs. Do not be alarmed if they raid your
garden. Absolutely NO GRAPES, RAISINS, CHOCOLATE.
Exercise:
Growing bones are fragile. Growth plates do not fully close until close to one year of age. You must actively protect
your pup. Moderation in all exercise is best. Too little exercise and too much (and inappropriate exercise) can be
detrimental to your pup.
No jumping exercises until after 12 months.
No jumping in and out of automobiles.
No jumping down stairs
No excessive stairs
No controlled running until 12 months.
No free play with older, larger, physically mature dogs.
(Would you let a toddler play tackle football with a high school line-backer?)
No slippery surfaces.
Free walking/sprinting/cavorting on grass is ideal. Leash walks are fine—just no marathon miles at early ages.
Swimming is ideal for growing joints. Some dogs love the water, others are strictly land-lubbers.
Agility exercises where all four feet remain on the ground are fine. No hurdles, no tables, no dog walks until after 12
months.
Housing:
Crate training is highly recommended.
Kuranda dog beds are highly recommended. As advertised, these are virtually indestructible (and all parts are
replaceable!)
Non-slip surfaces are critical. A dog slip-sliding on polished tile is an orthopedic problem waiting to happen.
Toys:
No tennis balls of any kind. The fabric erodes tooth enamel and they are easily destroyed (and eaten) resulting in
intestinal obstruction.
Current Recommended Foods:
1) Verus - Holistic dog Food 2) Merricks Dog Food 3) California Naturals Dog Food 4) Dick Van Patten
Dog Foods Are Very good
IF A DOG WAS YOUR TEACHER, you would learn stuff like.....
When loved ones come home, always run to greet them.
Never pass up the opportunity to go for a joyride.
Allow the experience of fresh air and the wind in your face to be pure ecstasy.
When it's in your best interest -- practice obedience.
Let others know when they've invaded your territory.
Take naps and stretch before rising.
Run, romp, and play daily.
Thrive on attention and let people touch you.
Avoid biting, when a simple growl will do.
On warm days, stop to lie on your back on the grass.
On hot days, drink lots of water and lay under a shady tree.
When you're happy, dance around and wag your entire body.
No matter how often you're scolded, don't buy into the guilt thing and pout...run right back and
make friends.
Delight in the simple joy of a long walk.
Eat with gusto and enthusiasm. Stop when you have had enough.
Be loyal.
Never pretend to be something you're not.
If what you want lies buried, dig until you find it.
When someone is having a bad day, be silent, sit close by and nuzzle them gently.
HE IS YOUR FRIEND,YOUR PARTNER,YOUR DEFENDER,YOUR DOG.YOU ARE HIS LIFE,HIS
LOVE,HIS LEADER.HE WILL BE YOURS,FAITHFUL AND TRUE,TO THE LAST BEAT OF HIS
HEART.YOU OWE IT TO HIM TO BE WORTHY OF SUCH DEVOTION
Please make yourself at home with us
As you look through our site.
Meet our dogs & view the
available puppies
Looking for new loving homes.
"There is no psychiatrist
in the world
like a puppy licking your face."
When loved ones come home, always run to greet them.
Never pass up the opportunity to go for a joyride.
Allow the experience of fresh air and the wind in your face to be pure ecstasy.
When it's in your best interest -- practice obedience.
Let others know when they've invaded your territory.
Take naps and stretch before rising.
Run, romp, and play daily.
Thrive on attention and let people touch you.
Avoid biting, when a simple growl will do.
On warm days, stop to lie on your back on the grass.
On hot days, drink lots of water and lay under a shady tree.
When you're happy, dance around and wag your entire body.
No matter how often you're scolded, don't buy into the guilt thing and pout...run right back and
make friends.
Delight in the simple joy of a long walk.
Eat with gusto and enthusiasm. Stop when you have had enough.
Be loyal.
Never pretend to be something you're not.
If what you want lies buried, dig until you find it.
When someone is having a bad day, be silent, sit close by and nuzzle them gently.
HE IS YOUR FRIEND,YOUR PARTNER,YOUR DEFENDER,YOUR DOG.YOU ARE HIS LIFE,HIS
LOVE,HIS LEADER.HE WILL BE YOURS,FAITHFUL AND TRUE,TO THE LAST BEAT OF HIS
HEART.YOU OWE IT TO HIM TO BE WORTHY OF SUCH DEVOTION
Please make yourself at home with us
As you look through our site.
Meet our dogs & view the
available puppies
Looking for new loving homes.
"There is no psychiatrist
in the world
like a puppy licking your face."
“It’s a fine line between falling and flying”
There is sorrow enough in the
natural way
From men and women to fill our
day;
But when we are certain of
sorrow in store
Why do we always arrange for
more?
Brothers and sisters I bid you
beware
Of giving your heart to a dog to
tear.
--Rudyard Kipling, The Power
of the Dog
natural way
From men and women to fill our
day;
But when we are certain of
sorrow in store
Why do we always arrange for
more?
Brothers and sisters I bid you
beware
Of giving your heart to a dog to
tear.
--Rudyard Kipling, The Power
of the Dog
Animals are such agreeable friends - they ask no questions, they pass no criticisms.
George Eliot (1819 - 1880), 'Mr. Gilfil's Love Story,' Scenes of Clerical Life, 1857
George Eliot (1819 - 1880), 'Mr. Gilfil's Love Story,' Scenes of Clerical Life, 1857
Anthropomorphism
We're all Guilty, But Most of Us Don't Even Know What It Is
From Michael Landa, About.com Guest
an·thro·po·mor·phism (ān'thrə-pə-môr'fĭz'əm)
n. Attribution of human motivation, characteristics, or behavior to inanimate objects, animals, or natural phenomena.
American pets are getting naughtier by the minute. As the demand for dog behaviorists and for prescription medication to combat
"Doggie A.D.D." and anxiety continue to escalate, we have to wonder who's to blame for this hazardous trend. To answer the
question, we have to first understand the phenomenon behind treating pets as humans.
As the number of kids per household declines, the number of pets is increasing. Baby boomers, a powerful segment of today's market,
are quickly becoming empty-nesters and replacing their grown two-legged children with four-legged ones. Look no further than the
proliferation of the term "pet parent" versus "pet owner". In fact, a full 83% of pet owners now call themselves their pet's mommy or
daddy.
One possible incubator of anthropomorphism leads directly to the burgeoning pet retail industry and the marketers who want your
every pet dollar. Now a $43.4 billion annual jackpot for companies - larger than the entire U.S. toy industry - pet care spending has
reached unprecedented levels of growth and staying power despite a recent turbulent economy.
"By buying pets human-type gifts, we are making ourselves feel good and making them happy." says Bob Vetere, chief operating
officer of the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association. According to marketing strategist Lisa Lehr, this trend suggests a
hugely profitable strategy for entrepreneurs in the pet business to position pets as members of the family. "People are eager to
spend a lot of money on their pets. You might as well be positioned to receive your share," states Lehr. The unfortunate
consequence, however? A misguided view of canine psychology that's given rise to undesirable dog behavior in thousands, if not
millions, of homes across the country.
Expecting dogs to think like a human is fairly widespread among pet owners. One reason that ancient Fido likely earned the title
"Man's Best Friend" versus other animals was his remarkable ability to adapt his life to fit with ours. It is this very skill set that is likely
the cause for our frequently misreading of his intentions and motives.
Dogs ultimately need rules, boundaries and limitations. When dogs live with humans, the humans become the dog's pack. For this
modern relationship to succeed, we must be perceived as the pack's leader. To a dog, constant affection, gifts and accommodations
without rules, boundaries and limitations goes against every grain in a dog's instinct.
In other words, dogs need to be treated like...well, dogs. And, pardon me, for such a politically unpopular statement!
All but the most chronic anthropomorphic dog owners can improve their relationship with their dog and ultimately their behavior if they
make a valid effort to understand their dog's unique emotional makeup. Whereas throwing your dog a birthday party (hey, I've done
it!) or filling a holiday stocking with treats is not a heinous dog-behavioral crime, people should be wary when their own actions
impinge on providing proper timing and fair corrections for their dog.
When a dog is in any other state than being calm and submissive (e.g., if he's aggressive, obsessive, scared, hyper or anxious) and
we give him a hug or pat on the head and tell him it's OK, it is comforting to us, but it only feeds the state of mind for the dog, making
the experience more intense. While we think we're soothing the dog, the dog sees us as being a weak leader.
Let's look at an example. Many dogs are naturally afraid of fireworks or thunder. During the experience, the dog is in a weak state of
mind. If we step in and comfort the dog in a way we understand (e.g., hugging or baby talk), the dog actually sees us as being
weaker than himself at that moment. For your dog to be in a weak state of mind, and then be surrounded by a weaker state of mind,
only intensifies his original fear.
Anthropomorphic "parents" often discover that their dog has separation anxiety (sometimes manifested by destructive behavior). In a
pack, the leader is allowed to leave, however the followers never leave the leader. If your dog instinctually sees you as the follower
and you leave him, the situation causes so much mental anguish that he begins to take it out on your house, or worse, on himself.
Owners may want to think twice before buying that $3,000 four poster canopy doggie bed and catering to their dog's every
humanistic desire.
Whether it's the pet marketers to blame, or the glut of Hollywood films now portraying pets as humans (have you seen Disney's
Beverly Hills Chihuahua?), giving dogs mixed leadership signals throws him off balance, confuses his psyche and ignites a canine
imbalance. Whenever we try to evaluate canine behavior using human values we run the risk of misinterpreting our dog's emotions
and motives, while making minor behavioral issues become chronic.
So the next time you want to join the 63% of dog owners who engage in a little kissy kissy with Fido on the bed, let the conventional
disciplinarian in you take over and remind yourself that it's not only OK to treat your dog like a dog, but it's the BEST way to live in
complete harmony with him.
Michael Landa is the Founder and CEO of The Pet Staff, Southern California's largest and most experienced professional pet sitting,
dog walking and dog training company. His staff of 170 pet experts caters to a demanding client base of over 5,700 Angeleno
Anthropomorphists. Landa lives in Hollywood with his "baby", Max, an eighteen-month old Labrador Retriever.
We're all Guilty, But Most of Us Don't Even Know What It Is
From Michael Landa, About.com Guest
an·thro·po·mor·phism (ān'thrə-pə-môr'fĭz'əm)
n. Attribution of human motivation, characteristics, or behavior to inanimate objects, animals, or natural phenomena.
American pets are getting naughtier by the minute. As the demand for dog behaviorists and for prescription medication to combat
"Doggie A.D.D." and anxiety continue to escalate, we have to wonder who's to blame for this hazardous trend. To answer the
question, we have to first understand the phenomenon behind treating pets as humans.
As the number of kids per household declines, the number of pets is increasing. Baby boomers, a powerful segment of today's market,
are quickly becoming empty-nesters and replacing their grown two-legged children with four-legged ones. Look no further than the
proliferation of the term "pet parent" versus "pet owner". In fact, a full 83% of pet owners now call themselves their pet's mommy or
daddy.
One possible incubator of anthropomorphism leads directly to the burgeoning pet retail industry and the marketers who want your
every pet dollar. Now a $43.4 billion annual jackpot for companies - larger than the entire U.S. toy industry - pet care spending has
reached unprecedented levels of growth and staying power despite a recent turbulent economy.
"By buying pets human-type gifts, we are making ourselves feel good and making them happy." says Bob Vetere, chief operating
officer of the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association. According to marketing strategist Lisa Lehr, this trend suggests a
hugely profitable strategy for entrepreneurs in the pet business to position pets as members of the family. "People are eager to
spend a lot of money on their pets. You might as well be positioned to receive your share," states Lehr. The unfortunate
consequence, however? A misguided view of canine psychology that's given rise to undesirable dog behavior in thousands, if not
millions, of homes across the country.
Expecting dogs to think like a human is fairly widespread among pet owners. One reason that ancient Fido likely earned the title
"Man's Best Friend" versus other animals was his remarkable ability to adapt his life to fit with ours. It is this very skill set that is likely
the cause for our frequently misreading of his intentions and motives.
Dogs ultimately need rules, boundaries and limitations. When dogs live with humans, the humans become the dog's pack. For this
modern relationship to succeed, we must be perceived as the pack's leader. To a dog, constant affection, gifts and accommodations
without rules, boundaries and limitations goes against every grain in a dog's instinct.
In other words, dogs need to be treated like...well, dogs. And, pardon me, for such a politically unpopular statement!
All but the most chronic anthropomorphic dog owners can improve their relationship with their dog and ultimately their behavior if they
make a valid effort to understand their dog's unique emotional makeup. Whereas throwing your dog a birthday party (hey, I've done
it!) or filling a holiday stocking with treats is not a heinous dog-behavioral crime, people should be wary when their own actions
impinge on providing proper timing and fair corrections for their dog.
When a dog is in any other state than being calm and submissive (e.g., if he's aggressive, obsessive, scared, hyper or anxious) and
we give him a hug or pat on the head and tell him it's OK, it is comforting to us, but it only feeds the state of mind for the dog, making
the experience more intense. While we think we're soothing the dog, the dog sees us as being a weak leader.
Let's look at an example. Many dogs are naturally afraid of fireworks or thunder. During the experience, the dog is in a weak state of
mind. If we step in and comfort the dog in a way we understand (e.g., hugging or baby talk), the dog actually sees us as being
weaker than himself at that moment. For your dog to be in a weak state of mind, and then be surrounded by a weaker state of mind,
only intensifies his original fear.
Anthropomorphic "parents" often discover that their dog has separation anxiety (sometimes manifested by destructive behavior). In a
pack, the leader is allowed to leave, however the followers never leave the leader. If your dog instinctually sees you as the follower
and you leave him, the situation causes so much mental anguish that he begins to take it out on your house, or worse, on himself.
Owners may want to think twice before buying that $3,000 four poster canopy doggie bed and catering to their dog's every
humanistic desire.
Whether it's the pet marketers to blame, or the glut of Hollywood films now portraying pets as humans (have you seen Disney's
Beverly Hills Chihuahua?), giving dogs mixed leadership signals throws him off balance, confuses his psyche and ignites a canine
imbalance. Whenever we try to evaluate canine behavior using human values we run the risk of misinterpreting our dog's emotions
and motives, while making minor behavioral issues become chronic.
So the next time you want to join the 63% of dog owners who engage in a little kissy kissy with Fido on the bed, let the conventional
disciplinarian in you take over and remind yourself that it's not only OK to treat your dog like a dog, but it's the BEST way to live in
complete harmony with him.
Michael Landa is the Founder and CEO of The Pet Staff, Southern California's largest and most experienced professional pet sitting,
dog walking and dog training company. His staff of 170 pet experts caters to a demanding client base of over 5,700 Angeleno
Anthropomorphists. Landa lives in Hollywood with his "baby", Max, an eighteen-month old Labrador Retriever.
So I had a very Long day. I was
really tired I had stacked Hay this
day, fought off a ton of tela
marketing calls and I had to pay
some bills.. Not a fun day! But
When I decided to cheer myself
up I hopped on over to this little
antique store and found this Very
Old Monkey... He looked so Odd
and woebegone to me, I mean
hes smiling yet its a smile thats
Stiched on ) so I ran to the truck
and grabbed my Nikon. I think his
photo is fitting for this story on
Anthropomorphism, dont you?
really tired I had stacked Hay this
day, fought off a ton of tela
marketing calls and I had to pay
some bills.. Not a fun day! But
When I decided to cheer myself
up I hopped on over to this little
antique store and found this Very
Old Monkey... He looked so Odd
and woebegone to me, I mean
hes smiling yet its a smile thats
Stiched on ) so I ran to the truck
and grabbed my Nikon. I think his
photo is fitting for this story on
Anthropomorphism, dont you?
From Dr. Julie Churchill, College of Veterinarian Medicine, University of
Minnesota:
Raw Food
raw food diet. However, they have the potential to be life threatening. Any
food that can potentially kill even one animal is not worth the risk. Bones,
even raw and ground ones can perforate the GI tract. This can lead to
peritonitis, severe infections, require emergency surgery, and many dogs die
each year from this. As for dental health, there are no scientific studies
supporting raw food over commercial or cooked foods to maintain dental
health. Veterinary dentists recommend daily brushing and periodic cleaning
for optimal dental health. Bones can, and do fracture teeth leading the pain
and potential tooth root infections requiring root canals and or extractions.
There is also a very good study done by my colleagues (that will be
published in the next year) who analyzed several different recipe's for raw
food diets. ALL of them had nutritional deficiencies as well as some serious
bacterial contamination. Have you had a veterinary nutritionist evaluate your
recipe? These diets ARE contaminated with bacteria. This may not be
harmful to a healthy dog......however, dogs don't come with a label saying
which ones will be fine and which ones will get sick. Even if dogs do not
get sick from the bacteria (such as Salmonella or pathogenic E. Coli- the
Jack -in the -Box killer bacteria) they can become "chronic shedders". This
means they are carriers of the bacteria which is shed in their stool, and
becomes a public health risk to people who might be exposed. This can be
especially serious if your dog is ever around any children, elderly
immunosuppressed people (those on chemotherapy, HIV etc).
Sincerely,
J Churchill
Minnesota:
Raw Food
raw food diet. However, they have the potential to be life threatening. Any
food that can potentially kill even one animal is not worth the risk. Bones,
even raw and ground ones can perforate the GI tract. This can lead to
peritonitis, severe infections, require emergency surgery, and many dogs die
each year from this. As for dental health, there are no scientific studies
supporting raw food over commercial or cooked foods to maintain dental
health. Veterinary dentists recommend daily brushing and periodic cleaning
for optimal dental health. Bones can, and do fracture teeth leading the pain
and potential tooth root infections requiring root canals and or extractions.
There is also a very good study done by my colleagues (that will be
published in the next year) who analyzed several different recipe's for raw
food diets. ALL of them had nutritional deficiencies as well as some serious
bacterial contamination. Have you had a veterinary nutritionist evaluate your
recipe? These diets ARE contaminated with bacteria. This may not be
harmful to a healthy dog......however, dogs don't come with a label saying
which ones will be fine and which ones will get sick. Even if dogs do not
get sick from the bacteria (such as Salmonella or pathogenic E. Coli- the
Jack -in the -Box killer bacteria) they can become "chronic shedders". This
means they are carriers of the bacteria which is shed in their stool, and
becomes a public health risk to people who might be exposed. This can be
especially serious if your dog is ever around any children, elderly
immunosuppressed people (those on chemotherapy, HIV etc).
Sincerely,
J Churchill
"Teachers open the door, but you must enter by yourself."
~ Chinese Proverb ~
~ Chinese Proverb ~
"Experience is a brutal teacher, but you learn, my
God, do you learn! C.S.Lewis...
God, do you learn! C.S.Lewis...